Tips: Photographing the winter

Photographing by frost problematic. Fingers of hands freeze quickly and lose their elasticity, a legs, too.  The result: We can get hypothermia of common body or parts.

Therefore, the clothes of photographer should be as warm, impervious to the wind. Also, clothes should not greatly constrain the movement.

Take the warm, leather gloves, the camera will not slip out of your hands. Also a handwarmer muff come in handy. Shoes should be made ​​of genuine leather with thick soles and fur inside.

Daylight hours are short in winter, so plan your time carefully. Don’t get carried away filming so as not to notice hypothermia. If you’re standing in the cold for a long time, you should periodically touch your nose, ears, fingers. Because the early stages of frostbite, the pain may be absent.  Take care of your nose and ears from the cold. If you notice that your skin became white – you need to immediately restore the blood flow: actively breathe in through your nose, and making the breath and exhale. The remaining parts of the body must be periodically kneading till warming the extremities. The best shot is not worth frostbitten fingers and toes, or the common cold. Don’t make a muck of your the snowy mood, it is better to take time out and go away, go to home, to motel, to civilization.

If you move out far into the forest by car, make sure that the tank was filled, and in the trunk lie a shovel. Thermos of hot tea come in handy. But any alcohol is excluded. Don’t forget to bring matches and a hunting knife: wolves and wild boars are very hungry in the winter and might be interested in you as a delicacy.  ;) Don’t go deep into the forest alone.

Cell phone must be fully charged, check the financial balance of your account of your mobile operator. If your cellphone (smartphone) does not have GPS module, GPS device must also be charged.

Our camera batteries run down quickly in the cold. Nickel-cadmium (Ni-Cd) and lithium-ion (Li-ion) batteries are the most resistant to cooling, their efficiency is reduced by 50% if up to -10 °C. But for fully discharged Li-ion batteries cold is more dangerous: they can fail.

Nickel-metal hydride (Ni-MH) batteries (AA) used in inexpensive cameras, lose capacity much quicker. At temperatures lower than -10 °C feeding problems increase dramatically.

Solutions can be several: avoid prolonged freezing a camera, keep a stock up  additional sets of power supplies, which stored into a warm place (for example, in the inner pocket). The most reliable solution is a remote power supply (under clothing), which connects to the camera using a cable passed through the sleeve of the jacket. For some models of professional cameras available attachable battery packs (boosters). This booster pack, complete with nickel-cadmium batteries such as AA, can also be stored in a disconnected state in the warmth.

Extreme cold affects the other parts of the camera – shutter servo lens. LCD screens are not work (freeze). After thawing, performance LCD is usually restored. The cold does not harm to the rest electronics. There have been cases of shooting by modern digital cameras on the frost down to -40 °C.

The camera is better to keep the heat (for example, under clothing) between the photo session or into a special covers. Or take pictures without removing the camera from a special cover. Beware of condensation that can appear on the temperature difference in the first few minutes of shooting. Condensation can damage electronics and mechanics of your camera. I think that prolonged exposure to cold for the camera is less dangerous than the common temperature difference.

When you come into a warm room, don’t remove the camera from cover (case). It should warm up to room temperature in the cover. It takes 2-4 hours. This way you will avoid condensation. If you are not using cover, you have to put the camera into airtight plastic bag before you bring it inside.

This are tips about photographing the winter, my recommendations don’t cover the entire range of problems associated with the winter survey. Learn the theory and characteristics of the device technology, which should work, any the experience of colleagues.

The pictures below: the same angle at different times of day.

Other Interest Posts

  • Snails
  • Asshole
  • Lourdes town
  • Stop


  1. Hey there! This is kind of off topic but I need some advice from an established blog. Is it very difficult to set up your own blog? I’m not very techincal but I can figure things out pretty quick. I’m thinking about creating my own but I’m not sure where to start. Do you have any ideas or suggestions? Many thanks

  2. The cold air is pretty dry already. The problem is the warm moist air from the inside causing condensation. If you take your camera out in the warm moist inside air when it’s cold, there will be condensation.

  3. until you get home, do not enter / re-enter the camera to warm places trying to keep it warm and out again into the cold. This cold-warm-cold-warm makes the condensation-problem worse. If you are out picture-hunting from place to place, keep your padded camera-bag on your shoulders, take out the camera for shots (do NOT zip up your lid on the bag while shooting, thus letting the cold enter your bag), shoot, and when going back to your car for a change of scenery, put the by now cold camera back into your equally cold camera-bag, zipp up and put it into the trunk of your car (not into the warmth of the cars interior). When arriving at a new scene, you have a cold camera in your bag – which is good. No condensation! When finnished with my shoot, I take out my memory-card (so that I can look at the shots right away, when I get home) put the camera back into my, by now, icecold padded camera-bag, zipp up and leave the camera in the bag for about 2-3 hours when I come home. I usually put my bag down on the floor in my hallway (which is a little cooler than the living-room and not so humid) and leave it there. Do not open the zipper when inside the house for the first 2-3 hours (depending on the bag, isolation-wise)! What happens is, your bag isolates the cold camera and the temperature inside the bag – and finally your camera as well – raises so slowly as to create no problem with condensation whatsoever. Good luck!

  4. Most electronics don’t like cold, especially battery operated ones. Cameras will eat up a battery much faster as the mercury drops, which often means carrying multiple spares for your freezing camera. Don’t leave those batteries in your camera bag though, stick them in your pockets the closer to your body the better that way you always have warm fresh batteries. You can often eke out a few more shots on a battery by repeatedly warming them up with your body and sticking them back in the camera.

  5. The warmmi USB glove for lady is designed to keep your hands warm, while you are need to complete your computer work in cold weather, provides best enhancing protection against frostbite and other cold-related injuries.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

× nine = 72

You may use these HTML tags and attributes: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>